Who wants those perfectly sculpted brows? Me! Me! Me!
Do you know that there is no one brow shape that would suit every face but there is one that is the safest: your very own natural brow shape. Before we choose which shape is best for our face, we need to determine our face shape. The key is to balance our facial features. So, if you have long face, it would be more suitable to sculpt your eyebrow flat to shorten the face.
Determine Your Face Shape
Keep your hair away from your face as we need to start determining your face shape. Look straight ahead into the mirror and get a measuring tape. Get a pen and paper ready. We will literally measure your face. Using your measuring tape, measure the following:
- Face length ( centre of hairline to tip of chin)
- Forehead (widest part of forehead above the eyebrows)
- Cheek to cheek (outer corner of your eye to the outer corner of the other eye)
- Jawline (below ear where jaw angles upward to tip of chin), times two
Oval – Face length is longer than cheek to cheek, and forehead is slightly wider than jawline with rounded chin.
Round – Face length is about the same as cheek to cheek. Forehead is smaller than cheek to cheek, with curved jawline.
Square – Face length is about the same as cheek to cheek. Forehead is almost as wide as cheek to cheek, and as with jawline. The jawline has sharp angles at its widest corners.
Oblong – Face length is longer than cheek to cheek. Forehead is almost as wide as cheek to cheek, and as with jawline.
Heart – Face length is slightly longer than cheek to cheek. Forehead is almost as wide as cheek to cheek, with pointy chin.
Diamond – Face length is longer than cheek to cheek. Tapering forehead and pointy chin, with wider cheek to cheek.
Triangular – Forehead is narrow, with wide and square jawline.
Now that you know your face shape, it’s time to choose your eyebrow shape.
Skip the stencils! Your face is not a template. We are going to choose the best brow shape for your face now.
Oval: Slightly arched. While oval shaped face will go with most brow shapes, it is wise to keep the shape as close to your natural brow shape.
Round: High arched. To make round face appear longer and more defined, give the brow a high arch.
Square: Slighty angled/curved. Slightly angled and curved brow that is softly rounded will soften the stronger jawline features.
Oblong: Flat. The idea is to make the face look shorter. Extend the tails of the brows to really bring the horizontal features up.
Heart: Slightly arched, not too thick/thin. Just like the diamond shape, a well-grommed slightly arched brow will suit the heart shaped face.
Diamond: Curved. Balance the wide top part with curved brow to make it appear less wide.
Remember to follow your natural brow shape because it is the most suitable one for your face. Do not over pluck or trim. When extending the tail of the brow, keep the tail end at a higher point than where the head begins.
- Slanted Tweezers
- Brow Brush
- Eyebrow Scissors
- Eyebrow Razor
- Eyebrow pencil/eyebrow mascara/brow powder
Pick the right tools for grooming your brows. Quality is important when doing the brows as cheap and low quality tools will sometimes fail to perform causing damage to the skin and possibly scarring the face.
Use normal mirror, NOT the magnifying mirror as this will distort your perception of the brow shape. Do it under decent lighting. Get a high quality brow tweezers, a brow scissors, and a sharp brow razor.
Start by setting the shape of your desired eyebrow shape. Draw a thin outline with a sharpened eyebrow pencil on both eyebrows. Make sure the shape is even and not too thin. You can always make it thinner later, but you can’t grow it thick quickly if you make it too thin.
Use slanted tweezers to easily grab the longer hair. Turn the tweezers at an angle, and pull shorter hair from the pointed angle of the tweezers. Start plucking the stray hair that grows under the brow bone toward the tip of the brow. Remember the old tip: DO NOT OVER PLUCK, SERIOUSLY. Leave the fine hair and hair that grows close to the outline you made before for the razor later. Only pluck hair above the eyebrow if it is clearly out of place and visible to you from normal distance to the mirror. Always pluck on the direction of the hair growth and go one hair at a time.
Brush the brow inside the outline upwards using the brow brush. Carefully shave fine hair that grows below the outline using the eyebrow razor. Use the eyebrow scissors to trim hair that sticks out of place. Do not trim too much because if the hair trimmed too short, it will look like a bald spot on your eyebrow! Less is more, so do not trim it if it is not clearly visible.
Eyebrow pencil/eyebrow mascara/brow powder can be used to temporarily fill the eyebrow so it will look lush and full.
Your hair colour, eye colour, and skin colour will determine what colour you should choose for your brows. The brow colour doesn’t have to be the exact same shade as your hair colour.
Below is a guide for choosing brow colour:
Blonde: Match the colour to the darkest tone of your hair shade (base tone), e.g. Taupe shade. Darker shade will create definition.
Black: Medium brown colour will make the eyebrow looks natural. Black coloured eyebrow tend to look unnatural and too heavy.
Brown: Choose colour 1 or 2 shades darker or lighter than hair colour. If you have light eyes, choose darker shade to define. If you have dark eyes, choose lighter shade.
For quick eyebrow filling, you can use eyebrow pencil/eyebrow mascara/brow powder that is available in most beauty counter. To get a more permanent effect, you can get your eyebrow dyed at your local beauty salon.